The road journal of my trip cross country with Tim Albertson. Thought some of you might find this interesting.
Saturday, Jan. 2nd we left New Brunswick, New Jersey(long story). We drove through the night, only stopping in Chambersburg, PA to have dinner with a friend. We drove in 4-5 hour shifts. By the time we reached Western Virginia, the temperature had dropped to 7 degrees, and there was a strong wind trying to blow us all over the highway.
By sun-up on Sunday we were in Tennessee, pushing forward as fast as we could so we had more time to Photograph. By early afternoon we made Arkansas. The highway was under construction, so we took a detour on a local road. We ended up going through an abandoned town. All the shoppes on the main road (Rt 70) were abandoned. The public school was up for public auction. It was a modern-day ghost town. We continued through Arkansas and Oklahoma. I wanted to stop and watch the Eagles game, but that part of the country is dry or doesn't serve booze on Sundays. There were no bars open. Once we got near Oklahoma City we were able to locate a bar, but they only served cheap beer. That night we made it to the Texas border.
Around 2AM we went through Amarillo, Texas. It was like a Vegas for truckers. All the car dealerships sell semi trucks, and its basically a well-lit town of cheap hotels, chain restaurants and strip clubs. By sunrise we had made it into New Mexico. I had never been before, and it was gorgeous. I can't wait to go back. It had gotten dark in Oklahoma the night before, and by the time light returned, we were in the desert, it could have been 2,000 miles away. The landscape just seemed to have changed so drastically so quickly. Mid-day found us in in western New Mexico. I imagine I may take a trip there for a week or so, just to photograph the rock formations in that area.
Just over the border into Arizona we made our first stop, an unscheduled drive through the painted desert and Petrified Forrest National Park. I made a few negatives, most of it was under snow. We then made our way back to I-40, stopping o the way to have a Navajo Taco. We drove past the Grand Canyon, deciding that 1/2 a day wasn't worth it, the park deserves more time than that. Around sundown we hit Rt 93 and took that North, crossing Hoover Dam. I had been there as a child, but never at night. It is like floating in blackness, high above the Colorado River. A few hours longer we made our first real stop of the trip, a Motel 6 in Beatty, Nevada. Just over the border from Death Valley. We did it in just over 2 days.
We awoke before the sun, and went to Rhyolite, one of the nations best preserved ghost towns, about 5 miles west of Beatty. It is known for many things, including being a breeding ground for rattlesnakes. Luckily for me it was January and the snakes are hibernating this time of year. I made a few negatives, and then we moved on to Death Valley. Death Valley is one of the most amazing places I have ever been. It is like being on another planet, yet one area in Death Valley is so different than the next. We decided to concentrate out time on a couple of areas; The Devils Golf Course and Badwater Salt Flat. The Golf Course is a field of salt deposits that are odd-shaped and about 1-2 feet high. Check out the link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Places_of_interest_in_the_Death_Valley_area
Badwater Basin is another place that is hard to describe. Its another field of salt, but a very different texture and not as high or as hard to navigate as the Golf Course. Its the lowest point in the U.S., being 212 feet below sea level. It is also the hottest.
We left the Golf Course at sunset, heading west out of the park towards Lone Pine. By the time we hit the Panamint Range, it was dark. A few years back I had driven up the eastern side, but the western side was one of the more stressful drives of my life. It felt as if we were heading straight down the side of the mountain. With the dark it seemed like we could fall off the side at any time. When we got to the bottom I knew there was one more range to get over. As we started up the next range, we couldn't tell if the lights above us were planes or cars coming down the mountain. They were cars. We had to get back up another 6000 feet over the Inyo Range. At a snail's pace we did, and then enjoyed the gradual descent into the town of Lone Pine, where I celebrated being alive with a steak dinner and a few glasses of wine.
We woke up the next morning to the view from our hotel of the Sierras. It was amazing. We rushed up Whitney Portal Road, through the Alabama Hills to one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen. As the sun came over the Inyo Mountains it illuminated the snow-covered peaks of the Sierras, including Lone Pine Peak, that was right in front of me. I set up my camera in front of a group of boulders, and as soon as I was ready to meter the scene and make the exposure the sun illuminated the boulders in front of me. I was able to make an exposure within seconds of the sun hitting the rocks, getting them at the perfect time under perfect light. It was so satisfying (the negative looks perfect). We photographed the Sierras and the Alabama Hills for the next few hours, and then decided that instead of staying in the mountains we would head to the coast. I was at this point really sick with a head cold, and I thought the sea air might do me some good.
We drove south through the Owens Valley, through Bakersfield and into the Central Valley. There was humidity for the first time on the trip. Fog, rain and heavy cloud cover welcomed us, I was happy to see it. We made it through the hills around San Louis Obispo, stopping along the way to make photographs. We got to San Simeon just in time for sunset. We photographed until well after dark, and then got a hotel and ate mexican food for the 3rd time on the trip. We spent the evening doing what we did every night on the trip; cleaning gear and re-loading film holders.
We got up again before the dawn and headed up the Pacific Coast Highway to Big Sur. There were no gas stations open(they open at 9am, which is kind of weird) so we couldn't travel too far. We had to wait until 9 to really get going. We made our way to Big Sur around lunch time. We got a cabin for the night, and explored where we would go for sunrise the next morning. Then around 3pm we went to Pfieffer Beach. It is on an unmarked road in Big Sur, if you don't know its there, you won't find it. You take a one lane road through a little canyon that opens up to this incredible beach. Of course sunset there brings out a half-dozen photographers looking for the beautiful colors. I was happy making exposures of the rocks. We were there till well after sunset. I did manage to get wit by a wave, soaking my from the knees down. Which ended up bad for me since my only other pair of boots were not hiking boots.
The next morning we woke up way before the sun, about an hour. I wanted to get to Garrapata Beach. I had been told before not to go to the beach during high tide. I hadn't done my research, so I just figured I would risk it and go anyway. The waves were huge, crashing violently down on the beach. I got there and made my first exposure from the creek, so not to be in harm's way. I then proceeded to move south on the beach to a spot where I was up against the rocks, trapping me if a big wave came. I set up another shot, ad then was hit by a wave from nowhere, soaking me to my waste. Not sure what to do, another rouge wave came and hit me, soaking me up to my chest, and this time getting my camera bag. Mind you, the waves weren't even close to me before this. It soaked all the photographers on the beach, but it got me the worst. I spent the next two and a half hours cleaning and drying my gear. I think its all alright, but I wasn't able to photograph anymore that morning. From there we went to Monterey for Tim to get his ticket's home. We then stopped in Carmel Valley for lunch and to do a wine tasting and Bernardus. By 2:30 we were in Point Lobos, ready for for a great day of shooting. I made several images I am excited about. We photographed there until well after dark. We then drove up 101 to my sister Jeanie's in Petaluma where we would be staying for the next few days.
I spent almost the entire next day sick on the sofa, except for a few errands that included a trip to Whole Foods for some supplements. Sunday we headed out to try to make it to Point Reyes. We figured we would stop ad get gas on the way. We made several images on the way there. The fields were so emerald green, and there was fog everywhere. By the time we made it to Point Reyes we hadn't found a gas station, and it was going to be dark in an hour. We just drove around Marin County photographing. It was a good Day. It also ended the photographic part of the trip. The next day we went tasting in Napa, had lunch at Auberge de Soliel, and then hung out at Bouchon. Got a tour of Bouchon's kitchen, it is perfect; super clean, and well-lit. I wish I had worked as a chef in a kitchen like that.
I am excited to develop the negatives from the trip. I started last night and I am really happy with what I got so far. I haven't taken a trip out west to photograph in over two years, I feel like it was great to be out there working again. And of course I drive back out this week. I won't have time to take many photos, but I will be bringing a camera or two, just in case.